As a guide in Cape Town, I’m often asked, “What is South African culture?” It’s a fair question, but not a simple one to answer. Our culture is layered and diverse, shaped by centuries of movement, influence, and change. We have eleven official languages, a rich tribal heritage that stretches across the country, and the lasting impact of Dutch and British colonialism that reshaped the land and its people.
During that European colonial period, slaves were brought in by the Dutch from their Eastern colonies, mainly Malaysia, India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia (then Javanesia), and Madagascar.
With that influx of people, and the mix-and-match of traditions, languages, and beliefs, as well as intermingling with the Dutch and local tribes of the Cape, a unique community was born at the Cape, the Cape Malay people. This is a culture that is dense within our city and one that was born in the streets of the Bo-Kaap. A true, South African culture.
Their influence runs deep, especially through food. I’m a strong believer that one of the best ways to engage with a culture and its people is through its cuisine. Recipes, spices, and techniques that travelled across oceans hundreds of years ago have become part of what we now call “Cape Malay Cuisine.”
One of the best ways to learn about the food, and its history is through people like Fayruza, a Malay woman who opens her home to our guests. Stepping into her kitchen in the Bo-Kaap feels like stepping into the heart of that history. Her warm smile on entrance tells you long before she’s cooked for you, that the food is going to be delicious.
Fayruza begins by explaining the history of the area, and her family, who have been in the Bo-Kaap for many many generations. We then get stuck into the backbone of any Cape Malay dish, the spices. Fayruza takes us through her arsenal of spices and explains when to use it, when not to use it and how exactly to use it.
We then get stuck into samosa folding, and cooking! A samosa is the obvious place to start when it comes to this cuisine. As a Cape Tonian - I’ve made my way through many corner store samosas, but to have them fresh like this, is something completely different.
Onto the mains! Using the spices we’d just discussed, along with her own special masala blend, Fayruza guided us through making fried rice and a chicken curry. Watching her cook is something special. The way she layers flavours and textures feels effortless, and you can sense her passion through the sheer ease in which she operates. She moves through her kitchen with confidence and warmth, chatting easily with our guests as if we were all old friends.
The curry is always perfectly cooked, not too spicy, with tender chicken and more than enough flavour to show what Cape Malay cuisine is all about. My personal favourite, however, has to be her fried rice. Fragrant, perfectly spiced, with crispy fried onions and peppers mixed through, I could easily eat the whole bowl myself.
Finally, Just when we thought we were done, Fayruza disappeared into the kitchen and came back with a surprise, a plate of freshly made bollas, still warm and covered in sugar. We didn’t stand a chance; they were gone in minutes.
Eating in her home, listening to her stories and engaging with this culture is hands down one of my favourite experiences in the Cape. It is so special.
When people ask me what South African culture is, I often think back to moments like this. It’s layered and complex, made up of many influences and voices. But at its heart, it’s about sharing stories, meals, and a sense of belonging.
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